by Patrick Petti

Cooking food in the 18th century is one thing, but making it taste good is something else entirely.  As we step back in time and stray from the convenience of the local super market, it's important to understand that setting a Colonial table meant serving food that was readily available.  Many dishes were seasonal, and many were the result of what was on hand at the homestead.  Produce was picked and bought fresh from a town market, and since food storage was always an issue, fruits and vegetables were used soon after they were purchased.

This column is dedicated to one of the unsung heroes of the 18th century dinner table: The Squash. 

Squash?  You mean people really ate squash?  Yes they did.  In fact, there are so many recorded recipes and variations thereof that I could write a book on Colonial Squash.  Who wants a copy?  Anyone?

Preparing squash is not difficult, but before you start you need to know something about it.  First off, it doesn't taste very good on its own.  Unless you know a few secrets to make things palatable, you may be run out of camp, tied to a mule, dragged behind a horse, or worse.  The good part is that if you pull it off, everyone will think your some kind of genius.

So, the question remains.  How does one doctor up a bland and tasteless squash?  Everyone loves pumpkin pie, right?  No one eats raw pumpkin - they add lots of sweet things to it first.  Sugar, cream and spices all go into pumpkin pies.  How about squash?  Same thing.  If you can make it with a pumpkin, potato or other starchy root vegetable, you can do the same with a squash.  When was the last time you had sweet potato pie?  You just substitute the sweet potatoes for the pumpkin.  substitute squash to make squash pie.  Pumpkin bread becomes squash bread.  Carrot cake or spice cake becomes squash cake.  Are you getting this yet?  Good.  here’s a couple more before we move on.  Potatoes are good in soups and stews, or sliced thin and fried.  A little mayo or vinaigrette and you have potato salad, carrot salad, etc.  Mashed potatoes with butter and gravy have always been a staple item.  try substituting boiled or mashed squash or pumpkin.  

The best part about most pumpkins and squashes is that they love to be sweetened. 

Seasonings: Don’t limit yourself.  I like to use the sweetener as the base for the seasoning, but several common spices go so well with pumpkins, squashes and other root vegetables: cinnamon and nutmeg, cloves, 

butter, vanilla and maple syrup all work together to transform a squash into a culinary masterpiece.  Chunked, chutney or sauced apples, peaches, pears, cherries, dates, prunes, plums, most berries, raisins and grapes all will work with you.  Fruit is your friend.

Preparation and tools are important.  At home you can use aluminum foil and a glass baking dish.  In the 18th century  you have a Dutch oven.  if you're not sure about the heating translation between a conventional oven and a camp fire, follow this simple rule of thumb:  Low and slow is best.  low temperature and  longer cooking times for most things will work better than high temperatures.  

RECIPES

SWEET STUFFED SQUASH – (Last year's FORT MIFFLIN favorite)

For this dish, count on one squash feeding two people.  I found that acorn squash work best.  Cut the squash in halves and scoop out the seeds and set the seeds aside for roasting later on. Using your knife, slice off a piece of the bottom so that the squash
will sit on a flat surface and not roll over.  In a separate bowl combine diced pears, apples or peaches.  Add 

chopped nuts, raisins and some cherries and berries.  Use whatever you can find.  Be 
generous with some brown sugar or other sweeteners 
like white sugar, honey, or 

PFANKUCHEN – (PANCAKES)

Finely grate squash, beat one or more eggs with some salt and a seasoning you like.  Try a little combo of cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, apples, nuts, raisins or berries.  Drop by spoon into hot fat and fry until lightly browned.  Serve with syrup or applesauce.  

MEAT STUFFED SQUASH

Cut several squash in half and scoop out the seeds and the pulp, and separate both.  In another pan, brown some ground beef, finely chopped onions and lots of butter.  add the squash pulp, a handful of chopped walnuts, salt, pepper and a sprinkle each of parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme.  Simmer until squash pulp is softened a bit.  Stuff squash shells with mixture and place in baking dish with a water bath, covered or not.  Pour most any kind of sauce or gravy over it and bake for a half hour.  Then top with grated fine cheeses or a preferred quick cheese sauce.  Quick cheese sauce can be made with 2 beaten eggs, Ѕ cup of milk, pat of butter and a cup of grated cheese melted together and poured over shells.  Bake another half hour or until done.  If baked in a Dutch oven, a water bath can be substituted with beef or chicken stock. Then add a few vegetables to the pot along with salt to taste.  Use the stock to make soup or steamed vegetables as a side dish.  

ROASTING THE SEEDS

Squash seeds are just like pumpkin seeds.  They are good for you and have a surprisingly great taste when roasted.  After you clean out the squash you're left with a pile of squash guts.   I prefer to clean and wash the seeds, letting them soak for fifteen minutes and then draining them.  Move them to a warmed pan and lightly salt them.  Move to the heat and slowly roast them over the campfire or bake them off in your oven.  Check and stir them often so you do not burn them.  I eat them whole.  

Watch for my new book: "1000 things to do with a colonial squash" by Patrick Petti